I've hand-coded this website in static HTML and a few extra PHP lines for doing server-side includes. CSS is used to style the website.
I've got it all automated, using Vim and Make. I can start editing any page and publish it to the server, hosted by Irnux, with single keystroke.
The typography is based on the tips I learned reading the excellent book Practical Typography. Body font is set in Jost, with headings set in Vault Alarm.